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I’m accumulator of photos. I’m interested in patterns, shapes, colors, history, and it’s change throughout time. Maybe that’s why I fixate on doors (and knobs, and windows, and floors/roofs, and…).

I’ll let my photos speak.

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This is my favorite. Which one’s yours?

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Ok, not a door. Still love it.

 

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We arrived in Essaouira at night. No cars are allowed in the medina, so the car stayed behind in the large parking lot, and we walked our way through the big gates of the old city, pulling our trolleys behind us. At this point, it was very helpful to have the cellphone GPS with us, as we navigated through the narrow alleys. Also- check out the map at the end of the post.

Finally- our beautiful Riad, that’s actually part of the old wall that surrounds the Medina. Our beautiful room had the most fabulous view. Through the window, part of the ancient wall, we had an amazing vista of the ocean. Waking up to THAT… Oh mine! Riad Perle d’Eau.  Breakfast was great- served on the rooftop, with (what would be a staple in Morocco for breakfast) M’semen (local crepe), eggs, fruit, and coffee/tea. The Riad owners were very friendly and helpful.

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This is what we saw from our room window, every morning

We stayed in Essaouira 2 nights. The small Medina is easy to navigate and is vibrant and much fun. SInce there’s so much to see, let yourself to be absorbed with this town, and here’s what NOT TO MISS:

Synagogue Slat Lkahal

A somewhat restored synagogue that served the Jewish community in Mogador- old Portuguese name for Essaouira, that was built in 1850. The synagogue was a center for many social and religious aspects of Jewish life, as witnessed by the photos on the walls. Morocco is known for its good Jewish-Muslim relationship and as we travelled we have witnessed respect, love and compassion to the Jewish minority in Morocco. Slat Lkahal is located in the northern end of the Medina, in the heart of the Mellah (the original jewish area), and is just one of other synagogues in Essaouira. Synagogue Slat Lkahal.

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Visit the old port

A mosaic of little fishing boats, fish stalls, ropes, nets, ships, seagulls, fishermen, and Moroccan mamas going out to purchase their fresh fish dinner. The sun is shining on it all, the sounds are taking over, as well as the smell, the wind, and sometimes the light spray of the sea, if you’re standing close to the water. Breath and feel alive. Charming.

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Fresh fish anyone?

Salut Maroc- Riad and restaurant

You absolutely have to visit this place, and especially before sunset. Grab a table on the rooftop, order some light food and mint tea, and get ready for the most stunning sunset. They usually have live music as well. Get there an hour before that, and just tour around the Riad, all the way up to the rooftop, to discover the gems of dazzlingly intricate tilework and splashes of color (stairways, ceilings, floors, walls, tables, heck- even the restroom). I couldn’t stop taking photos. It’s definitely psychedelic. Salut Maroc.

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lobby from above

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Salut Maroc rooftop

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psychedelic corner on the rooftop

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Even the toilet are mind boggling

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Epic sunset

Climb up to see the city line from above

Climb the old Portuguese ramparts, enter hotels and climb up to their rooftops (I recommend the views from Riad Mimouna, Skip the rest of the hotel, go straight to the roof).

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Old cannons, cobbled stone and the ocean

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From the rooftop of Riad Mimouna- 360° views

Wonder the local quarter (both morning and night market)

Lose yourself by strolling around the non touristic areas of Essaouira within the Medina, and out. Observe the bustling life of the locals, buy and eat authentic food at the night market. Try the Harira soup from the vendor, or local moroccan crepes served with honey, nutella, or Amlou (almond spread mixed with honey and argan oil). Go for the spicy olives!

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Local

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Local night market. Of course we filled our bellies with these goodies.

What else do I recommend?

-Chill with tea at African Roots cafe. Great vibes, great music, friendly staff.

-Share a lamb tagine, Moroccan tomato salad, or Pastilla (traditional chicken filo pastry pie). With so many eateries, it’s hard to decide where to eat, and you’d wish you had more time to try them all. I advocate for the ones that look the most humble, and unassuming.

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The son of the owner is watching the tagines. Can’t get more authentic than that.

-Adore the doors and entryways. I’ll have a whole post just for that. I’m obsessive.

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Winter break is the perfect time to leave the East Coast chill and visit warm, golden Morocco. We landed in Casablanca airport, peeled off our layers, and set out to the sun, where Loutfi, our driver, waited for us.

We were off to Essaouira, and though according to Google maps the ride would take about 4.5 hours, in reality, like driving elsewhere in Morocco, it takes more time, especially if you like to stop enroute.

So stop we did. We first freshened up in the old portuguese town of El Jadida where we found a cool rooftop with ocean view and good mint tea and pastries. Le Lokal

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Le Lokal, cute rooftop

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At Le Lokal, mint tea, small pastries, and well… coffee, to handle the jet lag

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Colors of El Jadida

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We stumbled upon the community bakery where  women deliver bread to be cooked in the wood-fired oven

When it was time for lunch, and after some more driving, we arrived in the city of Oualidia, located beside a natural lagoon. There, we had the freshest seafood with a tranquil seaview backdrop. Ostrea 2.

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This small town boasts the freshest mussels

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Serenity at Ostrea 2

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Ostrea 2, Oualidia

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Leaving Oualidia, to Essaouira

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India is unique in so many levels. One of them is the liveliness and constant vibrance that grabs attention wherever one is. Colors, people, foods, smells, sounds, animals, buildings, all lure one’s gaze and awareness in all directions, that by the end of each day, I was dead tired. For good and bad. Not all images are jolly, not all scents are roses. Yet, all those make India a photographer’s heaven, as wherever the eye blinks, it blinks a postcard.

It was nice to take our time and walk around, sometimes sit and watch, and imagine, while listening to the audio tour in Jodhpur’s Maharaja’s palace.

Jodhpur, the blue city

Entering Mehrangarh Fort, Jodhpur

You can see how grand life was, back in the days, if you were the Maharaja, of course.

Maharaja's palace, Mehrangarh Fort, Jodhpur

Inside the walls of the Maharaja’s palace, Jodhpur

They don’t call Jodhpur “The Blue City” for nothin’. Indeed, it’s a spectacular view from Mehrangarh Fort, high above the city’s slopes.

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The Blue City, Jodhpur

And, like any other city that prides itself, Jodhpur, too, can boast a busy, find-it-all market, with anything from saris, to spices and tea, with cows roaming between stalls, and sweet chai being offered for a few cents.

Sardar Market, around the clocktower, Jodhpur

Sardar Market, around the clocktower, Jodhpur

Of course we had to buy tea, lots of it. And saffron, not so much…

By the end of that long day, we could peacefully go on and drive to our lodging for the night, in Chandelao. When I reserved the spot online, some months before, I wasn’t aware of two things:
One- it was damn far from Jodhpur, in the middle of nowhere. We arrived so late at night after a few wrong turns and endless driving. What was I thinking?
Two- what a quiet, tranquil place, located in a tiny cheerful village, where my kids interacted with the local kids, who hardly knew any English. The haveli where we slept was old and charming. I guess I knew exactly what I wanted when ordering online.

detail of Chandelao Garh, our Haveli in Chandelao village

detail of Chandelao Garh, our Haveli in Chandelao village

grand entrance to Chandelao Garh

grand entrance to Chandelao Garh

The best part: mingling with the locals, especially the kids, giggles and all.

bike riding with the local kids

bike riding with the local kids

Watching daily life

Beautiful girl drawing water

Beautiful girl drawing water

One of my favorites: Lior teaching the kids how to whistle with their hands

One of my favorites: Lior teaching the kids how to whistle with their hands

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